Specialty Cheese Shop Opens
Tara A. Spears
Cheese connoisseurs and those that appreciate artesian product will love the new Creamera Don Seve. Operated by the Chavarin Family, son Michael and mom Blanca man the small store. Located in the nor
thern La Penita neighborhood of La Colonia, the specialty cheese shop is open every day. “We wanted to bring the best handmade cheeses to La Penita,” explained Michael. “My family loves the flavor and quality of Don Seve cheese that is made in Pueblo. Now we bring these exceptional cheeses to you.”
The shop offers 12 different types of hand-made Mexican cheese: from piquante/ jalapeno, to the mild/ Oaxaca. Each cheese is delightfully flavorful and perfect for using in south of the border dishes or munching on with wine and crackers.
It’s interesting to note that Mexico didn’t have cheese until the 1500s. No doubt about it, as soon as cattle and goats were introduced by the Spanish, not only the criollos (Mexican born Spanish) but also the indigenous took up cheese with gusto. But because most of these cheeses are soft and fresh, until recently they have only been distributed locally. The mass produced wrapped product that is available in the grocery stores is a very different taste than the smaller batch, handmade cheeses that are featured in the Creamera.
According to Carlos Pereza, distinguished artisanal cheese maker from Querétaro in Central Mexico, there are 30 main types of Mexican cheese. Let’s define a few of the varieties that the Creamera stocks and how each cheese is typically used in Mexican cooking.
Queso blanco: This creamy, white cheese is made from skimmed cow’s milk, and has been described as being a cross between cottage cheese and mozzarella. It is traditionally coagulated with lemon juice, giving it a fresh, distinctive lemon flavor, although nowadays it is often commercially made with rennet. It softens when heated, but doesn’t melt, and is a good choice for stuffing enchiladas.
Queso fresco: A spongy white cheese, used to crumble over botanas – snacks – as well as on enchiladas and taquitos, this type of cheese was introduced to Mexico from Burgos, Spain. It is usually made with a combination of cow’s milk and goat’s milk. A very mild feta is an acceptable substitute for the grainy and mildly acidic queso fresco.
Queso panela: Also called queso de canasta because it carries the imprint of the basket in which it is molded, this is a soft, white cheese most often served as part of an appetizer or snack tray. It absorbs other flavors easily, and is sometimes coated with a garlic-and-chile paste, or wrapped in toasted avocado leaves, to be served with cocktails.
Requesón: A loose, ricotta-like cheese used to fill enchiladas and to make cheese spreads, this variety is most often sold in the markets wrapped in fresh corn husks. Mexico´s answer to ricotta cheese, requesón is so soft that it can actually be spread. It is used a lot for filling enchiladas and for antojitos such as tlacoyos and gorditas.
Queso doble crema (“double cream cheese”) is a very soft, white cheese made with additional cream to make it, well, creamier. It is smooth and rich and used for spreading. It is a cheese often used in dessert-making.
Queso añejo: This is simply an aged version of queso fresco and, while classified as a soft cheese, can actually become quite firm and salty as it ages. It is used primarily as a garnish, crumbled or grated over a variety of dishes. Romano could be substituted for queso añejo.
Queso oaxaca: Also known as quesillo, this is by far the most popular cheese for making quesadillas. It is a stretched curd cheese, kneaded and wound into balls. It should be pulled apart into thin strings before using to fill tortillas or melted on cooked food. Mozzarella can be used in its place.
Queso asadero: This is specifically a melting cheese, used to make the Mexican fondue called queso fundido, a dish which adapts well to the inclusion of a variety of ingredients and is usually eaten as a late-night supper. Fontina and Monterrey Jack are fine substitutes.
Queso chihuahua: Also called queso menonita, after the Mennonite communities of northern Mexico that first produced it. Unlike most Mexican cheeses, it is pale yellow rather than white, and can vary in taste from mild to a nearly cheddar-like sharpness. It is used in a wide variety of dishes, and is especially good for making queso frito, a breaded, fried cheese dish. If you want to substitute for Chihuahua cheese, a mild cheddar or a flavorful jack cheese would work.
Queso jalapeño: A smooth, soft white cow’s milk cheese with bits of jalapeño chile in it; this cheese is served as a snack or used to make quesadillas.
Queso manchego: Introduced to Mexico from the Spanish region of La Mancha, this is made from goats’ milk. This buttery yellow cheese is popular outside of Mexico as well. It is good for melting, or for serving with fruit or crackers. Manchego is widely available north of the border, but Monterrey Jack is a good substitute.
Queso cotija: Named for the town of Cotija, Michoacan, where it originated, this is a sharp, crumbly goat cheese. It has been called “the Parmesan of Mexico” and is usually served over beans and salads. This cheese is considered Mexico’s answer to an aged parmesan. It’s a strong-smelling and tasting, salty, aged cheese. Easily shredded or crumbled,
In addition to the deli cheeses, Blanca provides fresh baked and hand decorated specialty cakes. You can order by telephone 322 319 9126 or come into the shop. Custom party cheese platters can be ordered, too.
Treat yourself to real Mexican cheese and you’ll switch from the commercial version. Let the Chavarin family cremeria become part of your weekly shopping plan.
To get there: take highway 200 north of La Penita main intersection. When you see the two story Ferrateria Kornay on the right side, slowdown in order to turn LEFT at the next street. Calle Eden #23 is just before the first cross street. Open Monday-Saturday 8am -2 pm and 3:00 -8:00 pm. Sunday 8 am til 2 pm.
www.solmexiconews.com
