Mexico City Art Guide: Must-See Museums, Galleries, Street Art and More
ARTnews
What Art Lovers Should See in Mexico City, One of the World’s Top Art Destinations
BY NICK HILDEN
To say Mexico City is a great place to experience art would be a substantial understatement. Not only has it produced one of the world’s most beloved painters, Frida Kahlo, but it has consistently stood at the forefront of various international art movements for more than a century.
But the city’s artistic standing — as well as that of Mexico in general — suffers from misapprehensions derived largely from the region’s rather notorious reputation. At best it’s often considered a destination that offers little more than beaches and booze and, at worst, it’s assumed to be too dangerous to visit, great art notwithstanding.
Having spent most of the the past six years living in Mexico City and the rest of the country, I can report that both assertions are inaccurate. While the country has undoubtedly suffered issues with crime, Mexico is safe for visitors, with Mexico City in particular undergoing rapid shifts in recent decades to become a safer and ever-more artistically vibrant city. The city overflows with an artistic abundance that stacks up against any other great art city of the world. To that end, here’s a selection of the city’s standout art experiences, from its most renowned museums to under-the-radar spots that only locals know to visit.
1 Museo de Artes Moderno
“The Two Fridas,” a 1939 painting by Frida Kahlo, at the Museo de Artes Moderno
Located in Chapultepec, Mexico City’s landmark park, the Museo de Artes Moderno sits at the center of an abstract sculpture garden. Inside, a unique double-helix staircase divides the temporary exhibits on the ground floor from the permanent collection above.
This collection includes an expansive selection of works from Mexico’s most renowned painters, the star work being Frida Kahlo’s The Two Fridas.
While in Chapultepec be sure to also visit the botanical gardens, a work of art in their own right.
2 Museo Tamayo
A short walk from MAM is Museo Tamayo, which was founded by — as the name suggests —the renowned Mexican painter Rufino Tamayo.
The Tamayo leans into the avant-garde, regularly featuring elaborate installations from both established and up-and-coming contemporary artists. In addition to works by Tamayo himself, the permanent collection boasts acclaimed names like Rothko, O’Keeffe, Warhol, Magritte, Bacon, Dali, Picasso, Tapies, Vasarely, Lichtenstein, and many others.
Beyond the paintings and sculptures, the building itself is an impressive work of brutalist architecture.
3 Museo Nacional de Antropologia
El Paraguas, a massive, mushroom-like pillar that rains water, at the Museo Nacional de Antropologia in Mexico City, Mexico.
Adjacent to Tamayo is the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, which is an absolute delight for appreciators of ancient or folk art, or cultural history in general.
Upon entering the museum, one encounters El Paraguas, a massive, mushroom-like pillar that rains water and fills the air of the central courtyard with a pleasantly cooling mist. From there, the museum opens up into expansive rooms representing different Mexican cultures, regions, and time periods, each of which is packed with art and other artifacts.
There is no shortage of truly astounding pieces to explore. The Piedra del Sol is arguably the most famous: a massive, 24-ton Aztec sunstone around which one of the museum’s most striking rooms is organized. In this space sits Xochipilli, a famed16th century statue portraying a man in a psychedelic state, while the stone he sits upon is decorated with engravings of various hallucinogenic plants and other drugs.
Be sure not to miss Moctezuma’s vibrant headdress, among the countless other elaborate masks, carvings, and ceremonial garb.
4 Casa Azul
No art visit to Mexico City is complete without a pilgrimage to Casa Azul, known colloquially as the Frida Kahlo Museum.
Established in the very home where Kahlo was born, occasionally lived (including for several years with her husband, Diego Rivera), and died, Casa Azul is filled not only with many of Frida’s paintings, letters, and photographs, but also a wide variety of her personal effects.
While the museum does tend to be consistently crowded, it provides an intimate look at the life of Mexico’s most renowned artist. Keep in mind that you must purchase tickets online ahead of your arrival, and you should buy them several days, if not a week, in advance as time slots fill up fast.
5 Palacio de Bellas Artes
Located in the heart of Mexico City’s Centro neighborhood, Bellas Artes is a stunning work of architecture that borrows elements from Art Nouveau, Neoclassicism, and Art Deco.
While Bellas Artes hosts a range of art exhibitions in addition to musical, ballet, and theatrical performances, it is most famous for its expansive interior murals, most notably those of Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, and David Siqueiros.
6 Monumento a la Revolucion
In a city full of great architecture, the Monumento a la Revolucion arguably stands out among them all. Originally intended to be a legislative structure and testament to the glory of turn-of-the-century president Porfirio Diaz, the Mexican people had different ideas. They revolted, the structure wasn’t finished, then it sat for some twenty years before being completed as a monument to the fallen heroes of the Mexican Revolution.
Beyond being a unique work of architecture thanks to its bizarre fusion of neoclassical, Art Deco, and Socialist Realist designs, Monumento also serves as a mausoleum to revolutionary figures like Pancho Villa, Francisco Madero, and Lazaro Cardenas.
7 Leonora Carrington’s Public Sculptures
Street sculptures abound throughout Mexico City, but there are none as well-known (and weird) as those by British Surrealist artist Leonora Carrington.
After studying art—particularly Surrealism—in Paris and London, Carrington adopted Mexico City as her new home and lived there for the remainder of her life. She quickly became an instrumental figure in the regional art scene and women’s movement.
Carrington’s statues are scattered about the city, especially along its main thoroughfare of Reforma, where her piece How Doth the Little Crocodile is almost certainly her most recognizable work. Her home is also in the process of being converted into a museum, but progress on that has been hindered due first to the massive 2017 earthquake and then the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020.
8 The Street Art of Guerrero
A street art mural in Mexico City’s Guerrero neighborhood.
Guerrero is reputed as one of the city’s most notoriously crime-wearied districts, but it offers some truly incredible street art.
Along the main street you’ll find one stunning mural after another. Countless hours of work spanning dozens of artists have produced a kaleidoscope of imagery, primarily with a surrealist or neo-indigenous flavor. Be sure to make your way to Calle Violeta, which is a stretch of several blocks that have all been painted violet.
Worthwhile safety tips to keep in mind: go during daylight; avoid going alone; be aware of your surroundings; don’t flash expensive items. Feel free to take photos but be discrete with costly phones or cameras. During daylight you really don’t have much to worry about, especially considering the heavy police presence that has developed as of late, but once the sun sets it’s probably a good idea to make your way to a less infamous neighborhood.
