Mexican Contemporary Restaurant Opens: Expresso 89
Tara A. Spears
In Mexico, cooking is a serious art form and a national past-time. Not only is food preparation a rich source of history and culture but a fun way to meet new people. A delightful young couple, Jesus Glez and Evelyn Banuelos, have just opened a charming new restaurant that offers breakfast and brunch menu. The restaurant is located about 1.5 kilometers north of the La Penita main street, on the left side of highway 200. (think of La Colonia as a suburb.) The restaurant is huge and decorated in a charming Mexican modern style with unique flair such as the ceiling lights and delicate wrought iron on the windows. The enticing four page menu is available 8am until 4 pm every day but Monday. There is Wifi with purchase. You can call 449 143 4045 to order take out of any menu item.
Although Evelyn is a Nayarita, (a native of Nayarit state,) she moved to Aguacalientes to attend culinary school. She met Jesus in class and they fell in love. Married since 2019, the couple has a daughter, Helena, and a son, Jonathon. One of their shared dreams was to open their own restaurant. Jesus said, “I realized very early in life the power of food to evoke memory, to bring people together, to transport you to other places, and I wanted to be a part of that.”
Jesus has a bachelor’s degree in Gastronomy with lots of chef experience ranging from fine dining to fast food prep and everything in between. “I would describe my cooking style as Mexican fusion” said Jesus. “Food reflects my tradition. It’s not about nutrients and calories. It’s about sharing. It’s about honesty. It’s about identity.”
Both Evelyn and Jesus are passionate about food and their sincerity permeates every facet of the restaurant. Jesus explained, “We debated and planned our focus and menu for years.” Sadly, the realization of the dream was delayed a year because Evelyn was diagnosed with lymphoma in 2021 and underwent chemo. It’s impressive that she is so upbeat about the future and undaunted by the illness. “I think the worst is over,” said Evelyn. “I want to look to the future, help my husband, enjoy my kids. It helped me overcome my fear to focus on setting up the business.”
When the couple was developing their restaurant business plan, they decided to leave Aguascaliente and operate their business in La Penita for several reasons. “The area has a growing market so there is opportunity,” said Jesus. “We wanted our kids to grow up in this community,” said Evelyn. “We want the grandparents and cousins to be close to our children.” Their decision to operate during the day was influenced by wanting family time as well as to have time for Jesus to play in a band at nights. He was a professional drummer in an Aguascaliente band for several years. But, the item that tipped the scale to have a breakfast/brunch restaurant was that Jesus specializes in cooking comfort food. “I define comfort food as tasty food that reassures us that we will survive,” said Jesus. “Sometimes a little comfort food can go a long way.” Not only is all the food only prepared when ordered from fresh ingrediients but Jesus bakes the crossaints, rolls and bread that is served. You might want to bring some cinnemon rolls home with you!
For breakfast there are 14 offerings- various egg specialties, French toast or tacquitos- that will start your day in a positive way. Add fresh brewed coffee- capuchino, expresso,or various blends; smoothies, chi teas or hot chocolate to round out your meal. The drink server, Gaby, has had training and is a certified coffee mixologist. In addition to the fantastic breakfast options, the lunch/brunch selection has 9 tasty choices that include a Puercheron burrito, which has aranchera/ grilled skirt steak and shrimp filling; a melt in your mouth steak sandwhich or tacos Zarandeado which has meat with adoba seasonings.
Expresso 89 chef Jesus grew up and trained in Aguascaliente which has its own style of seasonings and methods of preparing traditional dishes such as echiladas and Gorditas Rellenas. Both Jesus and Evelyn are fluent in English which makes it easy for visitors to order. They are in the process of obtaining credit card service to facilitate your carefree vacation. Evelyn and Jesus say all the stress and work to start up their restaurant is worth it because when “When the customers smile and enjoy their meal, it is a moment of real pleasure for us, when we really enjoy life.” Once you experience the calm, relaxing atmospere and delicious food of Expresso 89 you’ll be back for more! Cooking and dining out is all about people. Food is maybe the only universal thing that really has the power to bring everyone together. No matter what language you speak or what is your culture, people eating together bridges the gap.
