Idiots, Saints, Sinners and the Church
A Drive-by of Culiacan Sinaloa
By Dorothy Bell
Photography by Bill Bell
“It’s the drug capital of Mexico” said the woman sipping a margarita next to me. “Chapo was from there….They’re all from there. Why do you think they call people from Culiacán “gangsters with huaraches.” “You’re an idiot if you go.”
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We were driving into Culiacán n now, somewhat apprehensive, somewhat curious. Expecting opulence from all that drug money, we were sorely disappointed. It looked like a big cowboy town. Lots of hats, boots and tacky shiny shirts in store windows. It had regular vendors, small stores, a parade of Mexican street commerce. Not everyone was driving brand new trucks, Lincolns or SUV’s. It was kind of normal. It wasn’t ostentatious, flashy or wealthy.
We checked into our hotel. We got a great rate – presumably because Culiacán is off the tourist radar. A huge room in the center of the historic district.
As is our custom, Bill and I set out by foot to the city center and main downtown plaza. It too was unremarkable. Unlike most churches in Mexico, the beautiful Catholic church, the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary, sits directly on a common city street. There is no grand plaza in front. The church occupies the middle of a wide lot called the Plaza of Weapons, which is two large yards flanking each of the cathedral’s sides. These spaces are for the most part occupied by vendors selling cheap plastic toys, trinkets and snacks from stalls.
The Cathedral is impressive; headquarters of the diocese, the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary, Culiacán is the church of all churches in the state capital of Sinaloa, The oldest and wisest. Construction started in 1842 and thirteen years later the star of the state was born; a neoclassical monument with a beautiful façade with inlaid pink stone. It has a clock separating two tall slender bell towers with 3 layers of bells on each spire and crowned with a cross. The dome is seen towards the back of the building.
Using the classic Latin cross as a blueprint, the interior of the church has two narrow columns of wooden pews leading to the alter. The church is pristine: black and white tiled flooring and decorative golden arches house various biblical figures. Decorative but not to excess. Christ on the cross plain and simple.
We walk outside, call an uber and wait until our next ride appears.
Temple of Our Lady of Guadalupe – La Lomita
We arrive at La Lomita a bit perplexed. We read the temple was a church atop a hill but while we were driving it didn’t seem like a hill at all. Then we saw the stairway up. It now seemed like a hill.
La Lomita – the mound or hill in Spanish – is affectionately viewed as related to the hill of Tepeyac where the Virgin Mary, known throughout the republic as Our Lady of Guadalupe, appeared to the Indian Juan Diego in 1541 – the very same year that the city of Culiacán was founded. Coincidence? Don’t tell a native from Culiacan that.
The original chapel was built in 1810. In 1913 the Ex-Governor of Sinaloa, Ramon F. Iturbe, ordered construction of the 144 stairs of La Lomita. Some say it was to impress a beautiful woman. In 1958 the chapel was demolished, and construction began on the current very modern church – taking 14 years to complete. The massive stained-glass windows, although depicting historical events and figures, are stylistically modern and light.
Today it is reported that over 100,000 people visit the chapel on December 12 – Our Lady of Guadalupe Day. The chapel can only hold 2,000 visitors at a time so the congregation is cleared every hour to give everyone a chance to worship the Virgin. The visitors often bring bouquets of flowers and climb the 144 stairs.
Bill and I watch in amazement as a man wearing a black Guns and Roses T-shirt begins his assent on his knees. I say to myself that he must have a lot to repent.
Jardines de Humaya Cemetery
Jardines de Humaya cemetery is known as the resting place for many of Mexico’s narco elite. Monuments and mausoleums resembling houses are erected to memorialize some of the countries most well known criminals. It is common for a trafficker to begin construction of their own “monument” while they are alive so that they can supervise their final resting spot. These creations are sometimes fitted with air conditioning and cable TV and can cost upward of $500,000 each. You can’t take it with you.
Families and friends of the deceased often visit and party on the grounds so it is advised to visit early and leave quickly.
Capilla de Jesús Malverde
Beto, our Uber driver is enthusiastic. “Visitar Jesús Malverde. El es increíble” Incredible or not, Beto doesn’t give us much choice. He skirts the traffic and swiftly takes us to the the Chapel of Jesús Malverde.
We open the doors of the car and the Banda Music hits us like a rogue wave knocking out our senses with the sounds of a Mexican “oom pa pa polka and country music” called Banda. It is an incredibly loud cacophony, a battle of discord; yet we walk toward the chapel and the source of the undeniable volume.
A small man sits on a stool and greets us. He gives Bill and envelope and points to a box not unlike those found in churches throughout the world, with a slot intended for the envelope and donation.
The outside of the Chapple is covered with stone plaques approximately 12 by 12 from various individuals and families thanking Malverde for something he has done to intervene on their behalf. Thanks to God for Jesus Malverde and the Vigin of Guadalupe for the favors received and for the protection of our familiesThank-you to the Virgin and Jesus Malverde from the Garcia Family. The music plays so horribly, so loudly I can hardly concentrate.
Jesus Malverde is called the Mexican Robin Hood…. with a mustache. The Narco- Saint. A bandit. A Myth. A Legend.As one story goes, Jesus was born in 1888 to an unwed couple. He grew up in poverty and the hunger and hardships he experienced led him to a life of crime. His parents died of starvation. He would steal from the rich landowners and then scoot away into the bush and would distribute the wealth to the poor of Culiacan who appreciated and loved this young hero.
However, the rich landowners were obviously upset and invoked the Governor of the state to put a price on his head. One myth says that while Malverde was shot, he managed to escape. He convinced his friend to turn him in, collect the reward and then distribute the proceeds to the poor.The townspeople were forbidden to bury him, and his body was left to rot as an example to those who might follow in his footsteps. His legend grew, and it became known that Malverde would intercede for the poor.This story is not unlike the story traffickers weave to their families and friends. “I come from poor and exploited roots. I rob, steal, cheat, hurt the rich drug users. I give back to my family, friends and community.”
The narco saint refence is attributed Malverde because a particular drug trafficker was shot and then thrown in the ocean. The young man prayed to Malverde and was saved by a fisherman proving that Malverde listens to everyone’s prayers including criminals.
The Catholic church does not recognize him but the people in Culiacán do. Candles bearing his likeness, T-shirts, dolls, postcards are displayed and sold throughout the temple. The day of the anniversary of his death is an all-day celebration.
The Narco Saint. Robin Hood with a mustache. Adios Culiacán. A place for saints, sinners and the Catholic Church.