August Jala Corn Festival: Sampling Centuries of Mexican Heritage
Tara A. Spears
From breakfast huevos rancheros and chilaquiles to the tostadas and tortillas dishes, corn takes a leading role in Mexican cooking. Whether it’s piled high with veggies and seafood, drenched in mole sauce or salsa, or dipped into fresh guacamole, corn in all its many forms delivers flavor and texture that weaves together all the other fresh and vibrant ingredients of a dish.
Mexicans often refer to themselves as the ‘children of corn,’ descendants of those whose religious beliefs included three corn gods. As the Egyptians carved images of crops and bread on their hieroglyphic tablets, so too can the humble corn cob be found throughout ancient Mexican art.
Today, maize production continues to be an integral part of Mexico’s rural farming communities. And, most importantly, corn forms the basis of the country’s diet and Mexican culinary traditions. In fact, corn can be found in over 600 traditional Mexican dishes, from enchiladas and quesadillas to tacos and tamales.
There are 60 varieties of original heirloom Mexican corn and many more hybrids and mixes. But most of the native corns of Mexico are in deep risk of being lost and forgotten. Concerned legislators enacted a federal law aimed to protect Mexican heritage corn in 2005. Mexico’s Senate wants to promote and protect the country’s native corn. Maize cultivation is Mexico’s most significant and successful commodity, which dates back to over 10, 000 years ago. In Mexico corn is not only a commodity, but it is something that’s deeply rooted within the country’s culture and heritage.
The federal corn -law seeks to preserve and help native Mexican corn varieties against competition from modern hybrids and genetically modified corn. As one supporter of the bill states, the corn-law will help prevent the “intellectual plundering” of Mexico’s indigenous communities.
What’s so special about Mexican native corn is that unlike other corn Mexican native corn is grown solely using traditional agricultural methods. There are over 60 varieties of corn developed with traditional and indigenous agricultural methods that are now considered by the law as part of Mexico’s national heritage.
The western states of Sinaloa, Michoacan, Jalisco and Guerrero contribute 49.7% of Mexico’s corn production. There are only small pockets of native corn production in Nayarit. The rest of the corn crop is grown in central and southern Mexico. Mexico is the seventh largest producer of corn in the world. Corn in Mexico is split into two seasons, the spring/summer crop (the main crop), accounting for approximately 75 percent of total production, followed by the fall/winter crop.
Every year during the first two weeks of August, the annual Sweet Corn Festival/ Feria del Elote, is held in Jala, Nayarit. This region is where the largest corncobs in the world are grown. Attending the Sweet Corn Festival gives everyone a chance to experience a very Mexican tradition. Agriculture is the primary industry in this region of Nayarit, a small state where corn is king. Locals credit the miracle of the Virgin Mary with helping them produce some of the tallest cornstalks in the world. The unique breed of maize that flourishes in this region can grow to more than 15 feet. A single ear of corn sometimes reach 20 inches long.
Besides the corn completion, there are other forms of entertainment. The food stands offer more than just dishes made from the region’s different varieties of corn, they offer the palate a real taste of Mexico. Some of Jala’s restaurants will be serving up their specialties, such as carnitas (shredded roasted meat tacos) and chilaquiles (fried tortillas topped with scrambled eggs, cheese & salsa), and, as Jala is also famous for their “mystical” peanuts, you are sure to find someone selling those as well.
It’s a comfortable bus ride from Jaltemba Bay to colonial Jala but plan on an overnight stay to explore the festival and town. Corn may not be as trendy or chic as keto or ancient grains are these days, but it is a basic component of Mexican culture and cuisine. Delicious!
